Marc Jacobs presents his top essentials. Usher in the new year, and look your best with these basic grooming products: The Trusty Three.
Wednesday, December 31, 2014
Saturday, November 29, 2014
USEFUL FOR: CONCEALING, HIGH-DEFINITION
The final product in this series has been an underground cult favourite for a few years. On a normal day, most men would steer away from something with the word "Girl" in it, much less a make-up product, but this item is basically miracle-skin-in-a-tube.
Made in 18 shades, the range covers fair skin, to olive, and dark skintones. There are so many options that finding a shade becomes a happy problem. I picked two shades (Warm Sand & Toffee), which covers my skin at its fairest and most tanned. It is advisable to do this, as skintones change during different times of the year, and across different parts of the face. Out of all the concealers reviewed, this one matched my skintone to about 90 to 95%. That alone lends this product high marks.
It is housed in a clear blister tube, like a toothpaste, with the exception of a brush-tip applicator under a black screw-on cap. The brush starts off white, but is tinted with the colour of the product as it is squeezed and applied. Everything is constructed in clear plastics, which is a major plus, so users can tell when the product is running out or if it has discoloured. Once again, this is a small but important feature, often overlooked by other brands. Each tube hold 8 grams of product.
The brush tip applicator also helps to distribute just the right amount of concealer. You can make short strokes over problem areas, before blending it in. If another layer is required, the brush allows a finer application that compliments the product buildability. So it is very easy to achieve a natural finish.
Effect:
I found the process of concealing very fast with this product. Usually taking about 4 mins to address redness around the nose, blemishes and dark circles, I was able to do that in half the time. This is mainly due to the brush tip, which makes for very efficient application. Blending is also easy, especially when the shade is a near-perfect match. The effect is a lot like an eraser, quite amazing.
Throughout the day, the product does not cake or dry out. It is best applied over clean moisturised skin. That helps to retain its concealing abilities, without needing powder. The areas that do get oily over time can be dabbed with a tissue. This picks up the shine and some of the pigment, but for the most part, the coverage is undisturbed.
This is also the reason why the product deserves that "HD" label. Its pigments are one of the finest, able to reach into lines but still give the skin sheerness and glow. This allows it to appear invisible both in person and more importantly, in photos or bright flashes. The ingredients responsible for this are Mica, and a unique Micro-Crystal infused wax.
That said, the product life once opened is only 18 months. This is shorter than usual, even though it contains 5 types of parabens. So if it is not used daily, product wastage is eminent. The brush tip is also a hot-bed for bacteria, as it comes into direct contact with the skin. So do remember to discard after 18 months, or if the product starts to discolour or smell.
All in all, it is highly understandable why this product gets so much raves. And at a very affordable price-point (< USD10) this is a Holy Grail item for many. It also has an additional use as a contour/highlighter, by respectively going one shade darker/lighter than your natural tone. While I have not been able to test this in dry winter conditions, this product has proven itself to be a favourite in my everyday go-to set.
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Friday, November 21, 2014
Probably one of the more accessible products in this concealer series, the Garnier PureActive Tinted Spot Roll-On is primarily an acne product, so if you are looking for coverage and spot prevention, this would be it. That said, this is my everyday go-to concealer whether I have breakouts or not. After using this consistently for around 3 years, it has proven itself quite worthy.
The product is housed in a roller pen. Why? Because the metal roller aids in cooling spots when applied. But I would advice against rolling it directly on the skin, as it is unhygienic especially around acne, and also to avoid over-application. The ball itself is quite large, so spot concealing is actually hard to achieve.
The best way is to pick up some of the product on the ring finger, dab and blend. That controls the amount of product, while keeping contamination to a minimum. Each tube contains 15 ml of product.
The product is highly pigmented, so a little goes a long way. Spots tend to be quite dimensional, so applying the product on the top and base of the pimple is ideal. Once blended, it creates the illusion of flat skin. To work in conjunction with this, before concealing, apply an astringent like Clinique Scruffing Lotion No. 2, to dry out and flatten the zit. This product then helps to maintain it throughout the day.
For normal concealing around areas of redness, several thin layers are advisable. This helps to achieve a natural look. The product is very buildable and easy to work with. But its best feature yet, is its flat matte finish, which looks like actual skin. The formulation it seems, is perfect. There is however, only one colour available that I know of: Medium to Medium Dark.
Throughout the day, on normal skin, the product gets a bit oily but it does not oxidise. It is possible to touch up after about 7 hours, but I often go a full day without reapplication. So if done well and with minimum sweating/rubbing, the product can provide all day coverage.
My only issue is with the overall packaging. A simple tube would have made much more sense. Unlike other roll-ons for undereyes, etc there is no need to dab so the ball tip works great. In this case, you will still need to touch & blend, so why not skip the ball and go with a pump or squeeze tube. The product is almost identical to the Light Instant Fairness Tinted Eye Roll-On (below), so all the more to have a different packaging.
While this is a unisex product, the shape and colour is very feminine. It is a shame that it is not of a more neutral design, as most men will feel rather weird having this on their bureau or toiletries bag. The pen is a soft pearly beige, and the curvy bottom-heavy shape does not help things either. Apart from these minor grievances, this 2in1 is quite phenomenal, considering its price point and performance.
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USEFUL FOR: CONCEALING, EVENING, MOISTURISING
Now this product is not necessarily created for concealing, but over repeated use, it has come in handy especially when you just want one product to do it all. The Daintree Tinted Moisturiser is a rare product, hailing from Australia. But more so because it is entirely organic and natural. So if health, and skincare, is one of your major concerns, Daintree products (as well as, The Natural Source) might be brands worth looking into.
The active ingredients in this are Almond Oil (smoothening), Avocado Oil (softening) and Coffee (stimulating). To be honest, it smells quite delicious too. Its pigment is derived from minerals, and is strengthened also by the SPF formulation. There is only one colour option, so this might not work for extremely fair or dark skin.
Application is straightforward, simply apply as most moisturisers. However, since this is a concealer review, the product also has the added bonus of being able to spot conceal after the initial layer. It is suprisingly buildable, and able to achieve close to full coverage through layering.
Effect:
As a moisturiser, the product is excellent. Since it is tinted, natural tendency is to apply thinner layers, so once it is absorbed, the moisturising effect is almost immediate. When your skin is both moisturised and evenly concealed, it is best to rehydrate once every few hours, just to keep it fresh. This can be done discreetly with a small spray.
When going in for spot concealing, a fine brush is always best. But if you have larger areas of dark or discoloured skin, dabbing with the ring finger works just as well. The SPF15 does provide basic sun protection, but if you are out and about under the sun, an SPF50 would be better as a middle layer (apply after base layer, before spot concealing).
The packaging however needs to be improved. It comes in 60ml glass jar with a black screw-on lid. Mine has cracked, and has had to be transferred out into another jar. An open jar is also tough to keep clean. The frequent dipping of fingers is, needless to say, unhygienic. You might want to go at it with a cottonbud instead.
All in all, this product is a winner. It is a time-saver and really effective at moisturising and evening out the complexion. It would have been nice to have a more streamlined packaging. Something small and safe, which would make it easier to travel with as well, but hey, you can't have it all.
www.thenaturalsource.com.au/t-Make-Up-1/Daintree-Tinted-Moisturiser
www.daintreeskincare.com.au/
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USEFUL FOR: CONCEALING, LIGHT MOISTURISING
Concealers for men are a tricky thing, as it does require a bit of skill. Over the years, products which are both easy and effective have stayed in my set, and in the first for this series, I will be looking at what was then a breakthrough product for men, the first ever male concealer: the Mënaji Camo.
The product is packaged in a tube, like a chapstick. It is pretty stealthy for most men, sitting on the bureau or in the work bag. The product amount has varied over the years, when first purchased it was 7 grams, but in the latest versions it has gone up to 10 grams. The formulation has also changed, a bit more on that later.
To apply, rub the product onto your finger, dab and blend onto the face as needed. Blending is easy, as the product is very emolient. Coverage is medium, and it is buildable after allowed to set for 10 mins. The colour closest to my skin was Magnum Bronze. There are 2 other shades: Light and Medium.
Effect:
After done with concealing, the product feels smooth, but it is shiny on the skin. For men's skin, which tend to be usually oily, this can be problematic. From personal experience, it does get progressively greasier throughout the day, so I resort to using this only in winter or during travels to colder/drier climates.
Alternatively, a tissue can help to lift that layer of shine and mattify the skin. Because the product is very emolient, (oil is its first ingredient), building up the coverage is tricky. The product must be half-set, before the second layer can be applied. Otherwise, the product will move and the prior concealing will be disturbed.
This also means that a fine brush might be needed for closer applications. Personally this is a hassle, but it does give greater results.
The first formulation features Jojoba Oil as the main ingredient. This is good news for men especially with dry spots that flake. It means that dry areas will remain moisturised and concealed throughout the day. In the later formulations, the main oil is Grapeseed Oil, along with 3 other additional fruit and seed oils. Silica (Silicone) is also in the newer formulation, so the product is smooth and has better filling properties, much like a primer.
The product works best for old acne marks, razor nicks, but if you have greenish or purplish under eye circles, a colour-correcting concealer might be more suitable.
All in all, the Mënaji Camo Concealer is an average product. It does its job but its formulation does make it problematic for user with oily and acne prone skin. Because it is oily, the product will need to be applied after a few hours, as the coverage will slip. The form factor and application is probably its best feature, making it a good starter product for guys incorporating concealers into their grooming routine.
www.menaji.com/products/conceal/camo-concealer
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Sunday, October 12, 2014
This product has been around for a few years. In fact, this was one of the more costly products I parted cash with when I started getting serious about skincare. The Dermalogica range is high end and employs a prescriptive medical approach to skincare. It is best known for "face mapping" where parts of a user's face is sectioned into regions where skin-needs differ.
I was prompted to write this review after having a few Dermalogica facials, which made me think of all its products I have used through the years. So look out for more Dermalogica reviews in the future.
This booster costs about SGD60 or more, depending on where it is sold. That roughly translates to more than SGD2 per ml. That is pricey for a tiny 30ml bottle. The intention behind a "booster" is that it provides instant results, what it calls "Flash-firming" effects.
The directions are to smooth over cleansed face and throat before moisturiser. Used in this way, it helps to form a moisture-locking base. There is also a suggestion to add a few drops into your regular products, for added boost. The product is a clear gel with a slight yellow tinge. As listed on its product page, it has no artificial fragrances, but it definitely smells slightly herbal.
Effect:
I used this over a period of a few months, it was my second repurchase after the first bought many months ago had gone rancid. Surprisingly, while I found the product effective in creating a barrier, it did not deliver any firming or tightening. The areas that it was applied on had no visible results, even though supple and hydrated.
So instead, this has been used mostly in air-conditioned environments, and also as a go-to hydrator for plane rides. For periods where my skin had a dry spell, I layered this with first a serum, and under a moisturiser. That helps to keep it hydrated over a period of a few hours, while letting the skin breathe.
Because it has not delivered on its promise, this purchase will be my last. Even though it has had an unexpected benefit for plane rides, there are cheaper alternatives. Also, after being opened for 2+ months, I noticed the smell has gotten stronger, which is probably the product going rancid again.
The bottle design is also a bit problematic. Due to its opaqueness and light weight, it is impossible to know if the product has run out.
Product listing (Dermalogica Website)
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Wednesday, October 8, 2014
USEFUL FOR: PLUMPING, MOISTURE LOCK
Part two of nature's venomous skincare series looks at Manuka Valley Bee Venom Mask.
Since its induction into the skincare belt 3 years ago, this product has had releases by various brandnames. While there are major luxury brands touting their best, I bought the Manuka Valley brand, as it is a "Made In NZ" product, boasting both locally produced bee venom and active Manuka Honey.
New Zealand is one of the few countries in the world which has 100% organic produce. While this normally covers vegetation and plant goods, it also extends to its other produces such as animal products. Safe to say, I am confident in NZ goods based on this promise. And the purer the skincare, the better it is for the skin. On the ingredients list, bee venom is number 2, highest only to water. That is a really good sign.
The product arrived in a slightly different jar than the above (50g). But everything else was accurate to the description. The jar is a thick apothecary glass, brown-tinted to protect the cream from light degradation. It is quite handsome, something out of a traditional gentleman's parlour. The cream within is white, somewhere between a light but stiff consistency. It is not runny and scoops out quite easily, eliminating any kind of drips.
Application for the product is in two ways: as a facial mask, and a leave-in mosturiser. Having tried both, the first suggestion of piling the product on as a mask and then rinsing it away after 20 mins was a bit of a waste. Especially for 50g product. Opting for an in-between usage, the cream was used instead with a gentle massage, basic firm stroke upwards in areas where both "lift" and "freeze" is desired.
Effect:
After 1 week of use, the areas around the mouth and jaw, where the formations of jowls occur, are lifted slightly. It is also helped more by the plumping effect, that is encouraged with the massage. The cream, after being absorbed, does sit on the skin a bit, so it is best applied at night or during dry seasons. I would imagine this would be a good humectant for winter.
It does work, but give it time. I expect better results with extended use. It is however not the answer to Botox, although it has above average plumping effects.
www.manukavalley.com
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USEFUL FOR: REDEFINING, TIGHTENING, TEMPORARY
If you are looking for a bit of tightening for those forming jowls, products such as the above by Rodial promises to give a much needed lift. Active ingredient is a synthesised venom by-product called Syn-ake, which is an industry trademarked ingredient found in many "freezing" and "lifting" products of the kind.
Effect:
I was really curious whether this will deliver on its promise, and applied on a freshly cleansed face. The massaging needs to be firm but not dragging on the skin, focusing on upwards stroking motion. After two clicks and a few minutes encouraging the product onto the outer areas of my eyes, there was a noticeable tingling and tightening of the skin.
It was really hard to see actual visible results in the mirror, but throughout the next few hours, the contours around the eye and upper cheekbone was more defined. The light/shadow on it, made it slightly pronounced, creating a subtle highlight.
The next few applications, over the 2 weeks of usage, I experimented on parts of my face. The chin and jaw area was a no-show, but the product along with draining massage around the nostrils did improve the naso-labial creases. This resulted in a smoother nose to cheek area, with less sagging around the smile lines. Its primary mode of effectiveness is in tightening the skin, thus smoothing out the lines, instead of introducing a plumping effect.
The product lasts for about 4-5 hours, so it is best used for a special occassion where you want to look your best. It will also work well with companion products such as caffeine-infused brightening roll-ons, which will go some ways in redefining facial contours, for a more chiselled appearance.
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