Kiehl's Rare Earth Pore Minimizing Lotion

USEFUL FOR: VERY BASIC MOISTURISING ONLY

Kiehl's Rare Earth range utilises exotic Amazonian White Clay as its star ingredient to absorb oil and mattify skin. By doing so, it aims to minimise pores, creating the appearance of even and smooth skin. Clays like Kaolin & Benzonite also has the added claim of being one of Nature's best purifying and detoxifying ingredient. 

Having used both the masque and the toner in the range, I consider myself a fan of this particular product offering. However, not all is well and good, and while a savvy marketing angle might work on creating a "natural" and desirable product, its actual performance might be exactly the opposite.

The bottle size is quite large at 75ml, it definitely feels solidly built and substantial in hand. A squeeze-pump (sans cap/cover) dispenses the product. Before use, vigorous shaking is advised as the clay element tends to sink and separate from the formulation. This was perhaps the first sign of trouble, when upon squeezing a gray watery liquid was expelled instead of a lotion. On a few occasions, the pump also got clogged by the viscous product.

Effect:

After a few attempts to mix the contents of the bottle, the product finally came out as intended: white lightweight lotion. It has a slight mud smell, and a thick consistency, later confirmed to be flour. 

I applied this to freshly cleansed skin, at the T-zone where there is most shine. The product feels smooth, and is able to integrate well into the skin. It does leave a little bit of a white powdery cast, so advise to apply in thin layers instead of slathering on. The immediate effect is mattified skin, although when tried on a friend with enlarged pores, the product actually sinked into the pores and just visibly sits there. We had to emulsify the product with a few drops of water to make sure it did not accentuate his pores with white clay spots. Second sign of trouble.

We went on with the day, but found out that by the 2 hour mark, the shine was back. In fact, my t-zone felt more oily than normal. Perhaps due to extremely humid weather, the oils were simply too much for the lotion. After a second cleanse, the product was reapplied. But unfortunately, even in air-conditioned environment, the shine came back again, more greasy than usual.

This was the first time ever that a product actually did the opposite of its claims. My friend reported a similar outcome. Upon wiping with a tissue, massive sebum was picked up, the product seems to have somehow created more greasiness. His conclusion was that the lotion did not absorb the oil, but brought it up to the surface instead. After a few more trials over the next few days, I am somewhat inclined to agree.

Looking at the concealed ingredients list provided clues. The main smoothening agent is Dimethicone, a Silicone derivative. It is synthetic and while creating a luxurious smooth feel upon application, it is quite pore-clogging. There were also two other comedogenic (pore-clog) ingredients: Glyceryl Stearate SE and Tocopherol. Further inspection also exposed the formulation; there was a second Silicone derivative, a cross-polymer. And thickeners in the form of Oat Flour and Xanthan Gum. 

The combination of clay (oil-extracting) and silicone (pore-filling) seems to be the most likely cause for the extra greasiness, as the extracted sebum mixes with the silicone on top of the skin and simply congeals, resulting in a facial oil-slick.

I had very high hopes for this product, having enjoyed the toner and masque in the Rare Earth range, but this was a major disappointment. And looking at its ingredients content, and following results, it is pretty much a disaster of a product. It has no focus, wanting to do it all : oil reduction, pore minimisation, moisturise, and in the end, not getting even one right.

Maybe the brand felt that a hydrator was missing in the mix, and thus created one just to complete the range. But this is a perfect example of product overkill. At best, this is a mediocre moisturiser but considering some of the possible problems it could cause to skin and the extremely high price point, it seems a good idea to steer clear completely.

Product Page & Customer Reviews

MANDESCRIPT REVIEW

Eau de Gaga 001 by Lady Gaga

USEFUL FOR: UNISEX, WINTER, SUMMER

TOP NOTES: LIME

MIDDLE NOTES: WHITE VIOLET

BASE NOTES: LEATHER. WOODY

The second perfume by Lady Gaga follows after the much hyped Fame. It can even be said that Eau de Gaga was released under the shadow of its predecessor. However, a few clues hint that this addition is intended to break away from the former. And while Fame was not a flop by any means, many aficionados are touting that this is the perfume that Fame was supposed to be but somehow could not quite muster..

SCENT PROFILE

The initial notes were quite acrid and sharp. The lime is there, but very faint. The impression I got most was mint. Even though quite strong, it still smells fresh, cordial and sex-less, in this regard, like a soap. I was a bit disappointed by the starter, and was worried by this.

However, by the first hour, the scent gave way to a light green tea. This change is perhaps the most surprising, as the scent becomes softer and lighter, without doubt more feminine. At this point, it smells like a powdery version of Elizabeth Arden Green Tea. This stage would be surprising on a man, but I would say most men would simply come away smelling "clean".

The final stage and my most favourite, is the dry down. With the green tea taking the backseat, the scent bloomed into a fine leather and musk. It is incredibly sexy, not a heavy oppressive muskiness but elegant and surprisingly sophisticated. Mixed in with that is also a mellow sweetness. The whole effect is not heady or intoxicating, but mildly warm and comforting.

SCENT PERFORMANCE

I got a solid 6 hours from this, sprayed on skin. The projection is medium, in summer conditions. The first 30 minutes or so, is the strongest and most obnoxious, so fair warnings to spray in advance before leaving the house and entering confined spaces like the elevator, car, bus. Dry down is softer, and projection is roughly limited to a 1 metre radius. I do wish the projection for the drydown is longer, simply because it is one that is masculine without being offensively musky, which is rare.

FORM FACTOR

True to her gender-bending persona, the perfume is unisex. And it shows in the bottle: it is both angular and masculine, but has definite visual threads to Chanel classic ultra-femme perfumes. In its naming convention, it also hints this is maybe the first (001) in a series, like Chanel no.5, 19, 22.

Ambiguity is also reflected in its colour. You cannot really tell what it is. From the packaging, initially it looks like an intensely dark red. In hand, it pulls in the colour of the surroundings via reflection, looking a deep emerald or blue as Bleu de Chanel. But it is actually ink-black, 100% opaque and 900% mysterious. It was a creative decision to mask all interior contents, indeed it will be difficult to know when you have almost run dry.

The perfume seems to deliver on all counts. It is completely wearable by both men & women, even though slightly more suited toward the masculine. It probably won't be a likely candidate for a signature scent as it does not really make a statement, but on the flipside it means that it is incredibly wearable as an everyday scent. Having worn this 4 times for various occasions (work, dinner, chiropractic session), it is indeed versatile and non-offending.

And I was glad it was a departure from the ostentatious Fame, which smelled sweet but clothed in an extraterrestrial & confrontational design. Eau de Gaga 001 feels more truer to itself, which is odd to say of a first edition, but it is classic and timeless, effortlessly calling upon well-loved scent families that are both rich and satisfying.

http://hauslaboratories.com/eau-de-gaga

MANDESCRIPT REVIEW

Académie Purifying Concentrate Anti-Imperfection

USEFUL FOR: BLEMISHES, ACNE

The French always had an interesting approach to aesthetics. Famous heritage brands started out in the apothecary tradition, and today, while most utilise more commercial methods with flashy advertising to sell their products, brands like Académie, La Roche Posay, Bioderma, Avene & many others still employ a low-key, prescriptive approach in delivering skin solutions.

Académie, in particular, has been around for 125 years and boasts solid following in both medical and aesthetic community. It is not uncommon to find Académie products selling in a hospital pharmacy. And the range of products, from packaging to form factor, is completely no-frills and functional. Today we take a look at the unlikely powerhouse, the Purifying Concentrate.

Housed in a solid frosted-glass vial, the product aims to purify the epidermis and dry out skin blemishes. It is targetted specifically for oily skin, making it perfect for men. As men's skin produces more sebum and is thicker, a good product has to balance its penetrative abilities without aggravating the skin's natural balance. 

The product is a concentrate, more than 80% Iris-Zinc complex. Zinc is utilised for its benefits to wound healing and the repair of damaged tissues. It is also for this same reason that Zinc is the main ingredient in most healing scalp remedies and products. The composite ingredient is Iris (Iris Florentina) extract, rich in iso-flavones, both anti-aging and calming. It works together with the Zinc to fortify the dermis by limiting the degradation of structural proteins. Both preventive and healing!

Effect:

I had noticed the early signs of a nodule-type acne forming, denoted by the bruise-like feel when grazed. If left to "ripen", the zit would begin to harden, causing a visible bump, before coming to a postule-filled head. The aftermath would be a mark on the skin, that darkens and fades over a few months. If not extracted properly, the zit would heal into a lump on the skin, as a result of residual pus. I decided this was the perfect opportunity to put the product to the test. 

Over the course of 5 days, I applied the product every 6 hours. Each time, the area was wiped beforehand with toner or micellar solution. I applied the rollerball to clean fingers, then to the acne (instead of directly). The last application before bed was also a bit more generous, allowing the product to work as the body rested.

By the second day, there was a reduction in the size of the swelling. It was still visible to the eye, however, there was no pain and it was not as hard as it should be. Under normal circumstances, it would have been very red and angry looking, and sensitive to the touch.

On the third day, the size is further reduced. There is no postule or pain, the lump seems to have stabilised and gone back to healing. Over the next 2 days, the lump has flattened and best of all, minimal discolouration to the skin. 

The product has managed to counter the acne and stop it in its tracks. While I am sure, the trapped sebum is still within the epidermis, it can be extracted or deep-cleansed via gentler means.

I was really happy and amazed at the effectiveness of the product. It delivered on its promise, and showed results fast. I am excited to use this also on other non-acne areas, like sun-spots or razor burns, to see if it works as a general skin-repair.

If there was one flaw to pick on; the product life once opened is 12 months. While that would not be a problem for users with considerable acne, for most people, this would mean considerable wastage at the end of its lifespan. Currently only sold in the 8ml vial, it has a batch / expiry number stamped on the bottom, which at least gives assurance on the pride and quality that has gone into it. 

Another demerit is also the glass vial. Though it is well constructed and very thick, it is still breakable. Without doubt, the manufacturers have gone with glass as it is non-reactive and will not leach into the product, but it still took some care to not drop this during the 5 days of trial. It also might not travel well, as glass is a no-fly item for most airport security.

Official Product Info

MANDESCRIPT REVIEW

Kérastase Homme Capital Force Anti-Hair Loss Roller

USEFUL FOR: SCALP NOURISHMENT, HAIR LOSS PREVENTION

The predicament of hair-loss for men is unfortunately very real for most, especially when reaching mid-life period. While many are yet to find themselves within that demographic, the overarching rule with aesthetic maintenance is always prevention before actual occurrence. This product definitely has that in mind. Just to be clear, its aims is not to generate hair growth, but to delay or reduce hair fall count.

As usual, the sly marketers have formulated the product to appeal in a few ways. The first being, its rugged olive green form factor, ease of application, and lastly, its delivery promise with the addition of an "active" ingredient. For the Kérastase Anti-Hair Loss Roller, however, only one of these was truly effective.

The magic ingredient present here is none other than Taurine, the metabolic booster in energy drinks. However, apart from conjuring images of fervid flying bulls, Taurine here is nothing more than a gimmick. In its base form, the amino acid is responsible for a plethora of health benefits including cardiovascular health, insulin sensitivity, electrolyte balance, and immune modulation. None of those however, strengthens hair root firmature. And definitely not as a topical application. Taurine works best as an oral supplement.

This is rightfully proven when using the product over a period of 6 weeks, in areas where hair loss is most prevalent: the hairline and at the crown. At the end of the trial period, the density of hair remains the same by its look and feel. Going by the product aim of reducing hairfall, the hair should feel thicker after 6 weeks.

Effect:

The product however did leave a tingling sensation on the scalp, when applied fresh out of the shower. The fragrance is also better than most, suitably masculine without being too musky.  It was a sophisticated balanced scent, and indeed, the "feel" of the product outweighed its actual performance.

The user application is also an improvement over most hair-tonic products for men. Usually housed in a spray or nozzle type bottle, this product is dispensed instead via a large metal roller tip. No messes or spillage. And when combined with a massaging action, the scalp-tingling is pleasureable, inducing a mild placebo effect at the very least.

The form factor is perhaps the strongest point for this product. It is small, handy and discreet. A user can go from home shower, to gym, to beach, virtually anywhere with the product. Surprisingly though, the whole vial only holds 30ml of tonic, when it looks like it could hold double that amount.

All in all, the product is quite disappointing. As a release under the luxury haircare Kerastase brand, which a subsidiary of L'Oréal, this product feels arbitrary and functions almost as a money-generating flanker between their mens' shampoo/conditioners. For its price-point, the amount of tonic, and also its questionable perfomance, it would be best to avoid this product.

Website with Product Info

MANDESCRIPT REVIEW

Happy New Year, Welcome to 2015!

Marc Jacobs presents his top essentials. Usher in the new year, and look your best with these basic grooming products: The Trusty Three.

Conceal Series - L.A. Girl Pro HD Concealer

USEFUL FOR: CONCEALING, HIGH-DEFINITION

The final product in this series has been an underground cult favourite for a few years. On a normal day, most men would steer away from something with the word "Girl" in it, much less a make-up product, but this item is basically miracle-skin-in-a-tube.

Made in 18 shades, the range covers fair skin, to olive, and dark skintones. There are so many options that finding a shade becomes a happy problem. I picked two shades (Warm Sand & Toffee), which covers my skin at its fairest and most tanned. It is advisable to do this, as skintones change during different times of the year, and across different parts of the face. Out of all the concealers reviewed, this one matched my skintone to about 90 to 95%. That alone lends this product high marks.

It is housed in a clear blister tube, like a toothpaste, with the exception of a brush-tip applicator under a black screw-on cap. The brush starts off white, but is tinted with the colour of the product as it is squeezed and applied. Everything is constructed in clear plastics, which is a major plus, so users can tell when the product is running out or if it has discoloured. Once again, this is a small but important feature, often overlooked by other brands. Each tube hold 8 grams of product.

The brush tip applicator also helps to distribute just the right amount of concealer. You can make short strokes over problem areas, before blending it in. If another layer is required, the brush allows a finer application that compliments the product buildability. So it is very easy to achieve a natural finish.

Effect:

I found the process of concealing very fast with this product. Usually taking about 4 mins to address redness around the nose, blemishes and dark circles, I was able to do that in half the time. This is mainly due to the brush tip, which makes for very efficient application. Blending is also easy, especially when the shade is a near-perfect match. The effect is a lot like an eraser, quite amazing.

Throughout the day, the product does not cake or dry out. It is best applied over clean moisturised skin. That helps to retain its concealing abilities, without needing powder. The areas that do get oily over time can be dabbed with a tissue. This picks up the shine and some of the pigment, but for the most part, the coverage is undisturbed. 

This is also the reason why the product deserves that "HD" label. Its pigments are one of the finest, able to reach into lines but still give the skin sheerness and glow. This allows it to appear invisible both in person and more importantly, in photos or bright flashes. The ingredients responsible for this are Mica, and a unique Micro-Crystal infused wax.

That said, the product life once opened is only 18 months. This is shorter than usual, even though it contains 5 types of parabens. So if it is not used daily, product wastage is eminent. The brush tip is also a hot-bed for bacteria, as it comes into direct contact with the skin. So do remember to discard after 18 months, or if the product starts to discolour or smell.

All in all, it is highly understandable why this product gets so much raves. And at a very affordable price-point (< USD10) this is a Holy Grail item for many. It also has an additional use as a contour/highlighter, by respectively going one shade darker/lighter than your natural tone. While I have not been able to test this in dry winter conditions, this product has proven itself to be a favourite in my everyday go-to set.

www.lagirlusa.com/pro-conceal-2243.html

MANDESCRIPT REVIEW

Conceal Series - Garnier PureActive 2in1 Tinted Spot Roll-On

USEFUL FOR: CONCEALING, ACNE

Probably one of the more accessible products in this concealer series, the Garnier PureActive Tinted Spot Roll-On is primarily an acne product, so if you are looking for coverage and spot prevention, this would be it. That said, this is my everyday go-to concealer whether I have breakouts or not. After using this consistently for around 3 years, it has proven itself quite worthy.

The product is housed in a roller pen. Why? Because the metal roller aids in cooling spots when applied. But I would advice against rolling it directly on the skin, as it is unhygienic especially around acne, and also to avoid over-application. The ball itself is quite large, so spot concealing is actually hard to achieve.

The best way is to pick up some of the product on the ring finger, dab and blend. That controls the amount of product, while keeping contamination to a minimum. Each tube contains 15 ml of product.

Effect:

The product is highly pigmented, so a little goes a long way. Spots tend to be quite dimensional, so applying the product on the top and base of the pimple is ideal. Once blended, it creates the illusion of flat skin. To work in conjunction with this, before concealing, apply an astringent like Clinique Scruffing Lotion No. 2, to dry out and flatten the zit. This product then helps to maintain it throughout the day.

For normal concealing around areas of redness, several thin layers are advisable. This helps to achieve a natural look. The product is very buildable and easy to work with. But its best feature yet, is its flat matte finish, which looks like actual skin. The formulation it seems, is perfect. There is however, only one colour available that I know of:  Medium to Medium Dark.

Throughout the day, on normal skin, the product gets a bit oily but it does not oxidise. It is possible to touch up after about 7 hours, but I often go a full day without reapplication. So if done well and with minimum sweating/rubbing, the product can provide all day coverage.

My only issue is with the overall packaging. A simple tube would have made much more sense. Unlike other roll-ons for undereyes, etc there is no need to dab so the ball tip works great. In this case, you will still need to touch & blend, so why not skip the ball and go with a pump or squeeze tube. The product is almost identical to the Light Instant Fairness Tinted Eye Roll-On (below), so all the more to have a different packaging.

While this is a unisex product, the shape and colour is very feminine. It is a shame that it is not of a more neutral design, as most men will feel rather weird having this on their bureau or toiletries bag. The pen is a soft pearly beige, and the curvy bottom-heavy shape does not help things either. Apart from these minor grievances, this 2in1 is quite phenomenal, considering its price point and performance.

MANDESCRIPT REVIEW